7 awesome things to do in Zurich

After spending 23 days in Switzerland, I’ve still got a mountain of content to bring you and this list of seven things to do in Zurich (which I may intermittently write below as “Zürich,” how the Swiss spell it) is the latest in my Swiss travel series.

Picking up where I left off in Bern, it’s an easy one-hour express train ride to Switzerland’s biggest city and the country’s financial centre. Zürich’s transit hub is huge. I’d been there once before, when we landed after our direct flight from Toronto, but I was exhausted and jet-lagged and had never used Swiss public transit before so the whole place was a bit of a blur. But, rest assured that all of the signage is very good and you can buy just about anything you need at the station — from clothing and accessories to food and pharma. You can even get your hair done or rent a bike.

Zürich feels like London, England, in many ways — modern transportation and recognizable stores (think Brandy Melville, Joe & The Juice, Levi’s, SKECHERS, Foot Locker, Pandora, Pret a Manger, Starbucks) with old buildings adorning the busy city streets. And like so much of my Switzerland travel experience, it’s expensive. This was the one place I visited where I couldn’t find a hotel deal and every single part of it just felt like an extra splurge, so if you plan to include Zurich in your Swiss holiday itinerary, you need to know it’s going to cost more for, well, everything.

7 awesome things to do in Zurich

For the most part, Zurich is very upscale; I passed four Max Mara stores in a 15-minute walk, for example. So that’s where this list will begin: 

1. Go shopping.

I read about two main shopping arteries when I was constructing the outline for my itinerary and hit those first: Bahnhofstrasse and Langstrasse. If Bahnhofstrasse in Altstadt is Zurich’s Rodeo Drive — Harry Winston, Chanel, Versace, D&G, Bottega Veneta, among all of the other big hitters — then Langstrasse is its Yonge Street in Toronto — seedy bars, shops for strippers, construction and unhoused persons screaming obscenities (though it sounds much more imposing in German).

Zürich boasts the biggest COS store I’ve ever seen — one of my fave brands — but the temptation to shop evaporated when I noticed that the tags simply replace a Canadian $ with CHF. The $35 tank top I packed? It’s 35 CHF ($60). Now, taxes are included in the price tag here but that’s still a $25 difference even when you add HST. Hard pass! That said, it’s great to window shop and walking around Old Town (Altstadt) is a must, even if shopping isn’t usually your thing, because the architecture is fantastic.

Just south of Old Town, there are a series of streets that all wind into one another, unveiling a new section of shops down side streets. This is where I found the Tonja Conceptstore (which had a Zurich pop-up location on Weinplatz during my visit). There was nothing I could afford in there but the eye candy was GLORIOUS! Adidas concept shoes featuring cowhide trimmed with bubblegum-pink patent leather? Delish. The 350 CHF (CAD$614) price tag? Not as much.

If you’re looking for All Things Swiss when it comes to souveniers, Schweizer Heimatwerk is the place to be. It stocks everything from cowbells and Trauffer wooden toys to Swiss Army Knives in a rainbow of colours and so.much.more. It’s on the Bahnhofstrasse at the end of the bridge where the River Limmat empties into Lake Zurich.

2. Stay somewhere affordable so you can spend more on Zurich experiences.

Don’t get me wrong, this girl LOVES a fancy hotel. I live for a good waffle robe and a fabulous wellness centre, but I love doing, seeing and eating things more, and with everything across the board being pricier in Zurich, you need to save where you can. I’m not talking about staying in a hostel — unless you want to, of course — and I’m also not suggesting that you’re going to find a clean hotel in a great location for a steal either.

I stayed at Boutique Hotel Ni-Mo for about CAD$420 per night all in. This included a very comfortable bed, huge shower, Wi-Fi, air conditioning and a very good breakfast. And, yes, that was one of the best deals I could find in Zurich! It was a short walk to Sechseläutenplatz, a large pedestrian-only plaza along the water’s edge. Plus, it was easy to get to on transit. I’d definitely recommend it and would stay there again myself.

3. Eat, drink!

I suggest finding a hotel that includes breakfast to save yourself some time and money, and Boutique Hotel Ni-Mo’s breakfast ended up being fantastic and so filling that I won’t have as many foodie options to present to you in this section as I usually would because I rarely needed lunch!

For yummy coffee to keep you going long after breakfast ends, Babu’s is great and has four locations in Zurich.

Eden Kitchen + Bar — part of La Réserve Eden au Lac Zürich’s onsite dining offerings (a hotel that’s in the $1,500/night range to start) — has one Michelin star and was the foodie highlight of my Zürich stay. Though tempted to taste a 58 CHF cheeseburger (that’s CAD$101.75 at today’s exchange rate!), there was a saffron risotto with scampi and foie gras that I just couldn’t resist. I didn’t make a tap water mistake again like I did in Bern, and instead ordered a beautiful glass of red. Sitting alongside the kitchen at chef’s table seats, you’ll get the ambiance without the official chef’s table experience.

Eden’s service is exceptional. The amuse bouche was interesting (it featured zucchini pearls and a raspberry chocolate flower on top, which offered a surprisingly good contrast to the savoury flavours underneath). And the bread story was strong, with sourdough, breadsticks and a thin cracker all alongside one of the nicest olive oils that has ever passed my lips.

I watched one of the chefs — all of them Italian — stirring my risotto, and another finely grate foie gras on top of it. Perfection.

There’s also Inselwirtschaft, for a fabulous lunch, but you’ll read about that when you get to No. 7 on this list.

4. Go to the opera.

I’ve always wanted to see an opera, and the Zürich Opera House (Opernhaus) was a fine debut. Considering most (all?) operas aren’t in English anyway, it doesn’t matter that you’re seeing a live show in another country. Opernhaus is ornate both inside and out. Open since 1834, it’s considered one of the world’s leading opera houses. The current building is the result of private funding following a fire in 1890 — there’s always a story about a fire in Europe, isn’t there?! — and it’s only been called the Zürich Opera House since 1964.

I saw L’Orfeo by Claudio Monteverdi, based on the Greek legend of Orpheus, which tells the story of his descent to Hades where he tries to resurrect his dead bride. Performed in Italian, there were German and English subtitles projected above the stage.

In Pretty Woman, Edward says to Vivian: “People’s reactions to opera the first time they see it are very dramatic; they either love it or they hate it. If they love it, they will always love it. If they don’t, they may learn to appreciate it, but it will never become part of their soul.” I didn’t hate it, but I confess…I think I’m in the latter camp. Still, it was a beautiful experience.

One thing I really appreciated about the opera house, though? Latecomers were not allowed in to find their seats until intermission! I wish all theatre companies did this.

Once the show lets out, be sure to take a sunset stroll along the Sechseläutenplatz and Seepromenade (Lake Zurich Promenade) directly in front of the opera house:

5. Climb the Grossmünster tower.

Walk up 187 steep and narrow steps, much of it a Medieval winding stairwell, to the lookout from Zürich’s Grossmünster tower. It provides an unparalleled look at the cathedral’s second, smaller spire and 360-degree views of the city:

This ticket is NOT available with the Swiss Travel Pass (a first!), but you do get a free one if you have a Zürich Card; unlike other city cards, this one isn’t free just because you’re staying in a hotel, so be sure to do a cost-benefit analysis before you get one.

Built in the 12th century and a former monastery, the Grossmünster is known as a key figure in what’s called the “Swiss Reformation,” which is essentially when the Catholic Church was stripped of its power in the 16th century and much of its assets were given back to the cities and people across the country — according to my Bern tour guide — and allowing more religious freedom.

Before you leave the Grossmünster, check out the labyrinth just outside the main doors: 

6. Take a boat ride on the Zürichsee.

Lake Zürich (Zürichsee); into which the River Limmat empties, is perfect for pleasure cruising. There are four different options but only one with first class. The Zürich Card covers only second class, but with my first-class Swiss Travel Pass I used that instead. I only did a one-way ticket bound for Rappersvil (it’s 4.5 hours roundtrip), and decided on my boat and route spontaneously after speaking with a ticket agent about all of the immediate options. She told me about an old town, castle and rose garden near the end of the Rappersvil route — so I went for it. 

Getting there is so relaxing; you just float along, passing all of the homes built into the landscape on each side of the river. It’s a very civilized way to get from point A to B. Take note that I lucked out with a gorgeous day but needed a sweatshirt when we were moving.

Every stop along the way (there were seven of them) had a pretty, flower-covered restaurant patio set right along the water’s edge, and your ticket is an onward ticket so you could always pop out for a bite and catch the next boat if you need a little break partway through. I was surprised to see most of them very full, considering it’s a Wednesday, so I expect weekends would be packed. Bring some snacks with you just in case.

Looking for more Swiss travel content? Check out: things to do in Bern; the Swiss Riviera; Saas-Fee, Switzerland; and the Swiss Travel Pass price to get around the whole country. Plus, if you want to give your child an incredible experience, consider sending them to the Swiss Alps in summer while you do some solo travel between drop-off and pick-up!

7. Explore Ufenau Island.

Though it’s not technically in Zurich proper, it’s close enough and was part of my boat trip from Zurich and you’re still on Lake Zurich, so it totally counts. And of all the things to do in Zurich, this is the one that I beg of you to add to your itinerary. It was, without question, my most-favourite day in Zurich. OK, Zurich-ish.

During the boat ride, I started to look up the Rappersvil area to understand where things would be when I got off. That took me to a page about Ufenau Island (a.k.a. Ufnau Island), which seemed like an intriguing option to explore after Rappersvil. To my surprise, it happened to be the last stop BEFORE Rappersvil, so I decided to hop off earlier than planned. What an awesome detour!

It’s an “abbey-owned” island — owned by the Einsiedeln Abbey since 965 — with remains dating back to the first century. It’s like stepping into a storybook, with a small church and chapel (dating from the 7th century) perched on hilltops, a vineyard growing at the centre of it all, and lake views when you turn your head just so.

PRO TIP: When you get off the boat, turn *left* when you get to this set of steps to take you to the abbey, vineyard and restaurant:

There’s one restaurant on the island, Inselwirtschaft, which is operated out of the Haus zu den zwei Raben, built in 1681. I wasn’t really hungry, but once I saw the place, I had to eat there. With a wooden menu the width of a picnic table, all in German, I simply asked the server what most people order; she told me it’s the fish and chips, because the fish is caught “just there” (she pointed) in the lake. It was far too big a serving for just one person — who wasn’t hungry to begin with — but it was delish. I paired it with a sparkling rosé from the island’s vineyard and it was excellent.

I had another restaurant bill surprise when it turned out the “fish and chips” are, in fact, two separate orders à la carte-style. Note: assume nothing and expect everything to cost more in Switzerland.

There are very few boats servicing Ufenau, so I only had an hour to explore after lunch, lest I remain on the island for an extra three hours. An hour was enough, though two would have been better — it’s quite small and well-designed with pathways to each feature.

With a full belly and an empty wallet, I wandered back to the dock to wait for a boat to Rapperswil. Which, incidentally, was quite pretty, with the castle boundary along the waterline. But it had already been a long day, so I decided to hop on transit to head back to Zurich.

I also wanted to head up the Uetliberg, but Ufenau Island stole my time — and I’m glad for it. Sometimes the best laid plans are meant to be broken.

After going to sleep early on my last night in Zurich, I woke just after dawn feeling really refreshed. Although I didn’t have plans to leave Zürich right after breakfast, that’s exactly what I did. You see, Switzerland’s magic is not in its cities. They’re just cities with lovely old buildings in them. The real magic is in the small towns and mountains — and that’s where the balance of my time in Switzerland took me.

I’m glad I added cities to my itinerary, though, because you need comparisons to find appreciation and gratitude in ALL things, travel included. And if you’ve never been to Europe before, at least one major city is a must. Now you just need to decide between Bern and Zurich.

 

 

DISCLAIMER: Almost all of Zurich was on my own dime, though the Zurich Tourism office did kindly provide me with a Zurich Card (which I didn’t use nearly as much as I expected to) and the Opera House generously hosted me.