27 reasons to visit the Swiss Riviera

You’ve undoubtedly heard of the French Riviera, but did you know there’s a Swiss Riviera, too? Riviera is actually the Italian word for coastline, and in Switzerland’s case, it’s a reference to Lake Geneva’s “coast.” The Vaud canton — a canton is like a state or province — includes many cities you’ve probably heard of, like Lausanne and Montreux, but it’s also home to lesser-known spots that are also considered part of the Swiss Riviera, such as Vevey, Veytaux and Leysin.

While my teenage daughter was busy learning French, making international friends and having the summer of a lifetime in a program at a Swiss boarding school called Leysin American School (read my Swiss Alps in Summer post to learn more), I had three weeks to explore Switzerland on my own. I spent a good chunk of time in the Swiss Riviera before heading off to visit major cities like Bern and Zürich, using my Swiss Travel Pass to enjoy panoramic train rides and reach car-free villages like Mürren, Stoos, St. Moritz and Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

Once you’ve added the Swiss Riviera to your Switzerland itinerary, be sure to look up all the things to do in Saas-Fee — the bucket-list destination you’ve probably never heard of.

While this is certainly not going to be the most exhaustive list of things to do in the Swiss Riviera, it’ll give you plenty of options if you’ve only got a few days to spare in the region — or a whole week. I’m even going to cheat a little and suggest some stops that fall just outside the Swiss Riviera since you’re going to be there anyway.

And remember to brush up on your French, because this canton shares a border with France and French is the most widely spoken language here. Unlike bigger cities like Geneva and Zürich, you may run into some language barriers as not everyone speaks English — but start with Switzerland’s universal hello (“Grüezi!”) and use Google Translate if you need to. This is one of the friendliest parts of Switzerland, but you should at least make an effort.

Here are 27 reasons to visit the Swiss Riviera

Although this list of things to do in the Swiss Riviera is not in any particular order of importance, I have tried to organize it in such a way that it follows a sensical directional flow — assuming you’ve confirmed the Swiss Travel Pass price works for you and you plan to take public transit. To help you plan, I’ve mapped out everything:

My suggestion is to make Veytaux your home base — it’s lovely, less expensive than more on-the-beaten-path places like Montreux and Lausanne and yet still very central to the entire Swiss Riviera — and then do Montreux (including Rochers-de-Naye but saving the GoldenPass Express until the end), Vevey, Leysin, Col de Pillon (including Les Diablerets) and Lausanne as separate day trips; you’ll spend less time checking in and out of hotels, packing and unpacking, and more time out and about, seeing the sights.

This also puts you very close to the Montreux train station to catch the earliest GoldenPass Express panoramic train to Interlaken to continue your Swiss adventure when your time in the Swiss Riviera comes to an end.

Short on time? I’d combine Leysin and Col de Pillon into a single day trip and Veytaux paired with Vevey or Montreux into another, spending half days in each. If the Montreux Jazz Festival is on, choose Montreux; if it’s not, choose whichever one has activities and attractions below that interest you more.

Now, 27 reasons why you need to add the gorgeous Swiss Riviera to your Swiss itinerary:

Let’s kick things off in Veytaux…

1. Located in the small village of Veytaux, which will be your home base in the Swiss Riviera, what Hôtel Masson (Swiss Historic Hôtel Masson & Restaurant Elise) lacks in air conditioning, it makes up for in charm. It’s the oldest-surviving hotel in the entire Montreux region, and has just 31 rooms — each with the heaviest door keys ever. Like many Swiss hotels, there are big windows and a fan to make up for the missing A/C. When I visited in the July, it was hot but the hotel’s location lends itself to a good breeze and, with the fan, it wasn’t hard to sleep.

Besides, if you’re visiting during the Montreux Jazz Festival like I was, the hotels within an hour of Montreux are exceptionally pricy, so unless you’re independently wealthy, it’s worth a trade-off like air conditioning to stay in such a lovely, clean hotel — with a hearty, delicious breakfast that’s included with your nightly rate — for a fraction of something with less character closer to the action. And there’s plenty of action to be had within walking distance of Hôtel Masson anyway, plus it’s a mere 11-minute transit ride to the heart of Montreux.

Your stay comes with a free regional card for transit and Chillon Castle entry if you don’t have a Swiss Travel Pass.

2. Chillon Castle — a medieval island castle built into a rock on the edge of Lake Geneva — is just 13 minutes on foot from Hôtel Masson. It took many centuries, starting in the 1100s, to build this roughly 110-metre (360-foot) long by 50-metre (164-foot) wide stone structure that would become a fortress, residence and prison. 

Part of the Swiss Riviera’s Savoy (Savoie) region, Château de Chillon is the most-visited castle in Switzerland, and you get free entry with a Swiss Travel Pass. The Savoie area has had mountain cheese on various dukes’ tables since 1402 and this is coincidentally the same region where the cheese used at one of our favourite Mont-Tremblant restaurants (La Savoie) in Tremblant comes from!

Cheese aside, this castle is great for self-exploration; you don’t need to buy the audio guide if you don’t want to shell out extra money. I didn’t and don’t feel like I missed out at all since there are numerous plaques and posters throughout the castle with loads of information. There are a number of spaces set up the way it may have been during medieval times, some original furniture and you can walk through the dungeon, which is probably what makes Chillon Castle so infamous.

Perhaps you’ve heard of the famous English poet Lord Byron? Well, he wrote a poem called The Prisoner of Chillon, inspired by François Bonivard — a castle prisoner — who lived from 1493 to 1570 and spent four long years in the dungeon at Chillon Castle, preceded by two years as a prisoner elsewhere in the castle’s halls.

Be sure to check out the area south of the castle’s exit; there’s a fantastic wooden dock that juts out into Lake Geneva that’s perfect for selfies:

A word of warning: watch for low arches and uneven flooring while you’re inside the castle.

3. From the castle, find Quai Alfred Chatelanat (noted on my map above), which is a paved path that runs alongside Lake Geneva and starts just north of the castle entrance. Use Google Maps walking directions once you’re on the path to locate the Territet funicular (Funiculaire Territet-Glion); choose the path that hugs the waterline for the first half. This walk is beautiful and only about 20 minutes, rewarding you with great lake views, a manmade waterfall and some interesting homes in the latter half of the walk. 

This is one of the oldest funicular railways in Switzerland, taking passengers up an extremely steep incline for eight minutes of spectacular views. You’ll be able to see Chillon Castle in the distance from a whole new vantage point! Stay on the Territet funicular to reach Glion station.

4. If there’s time before the train arrives, take a little wander around the station for more breathtaking views. From here, there’s a cogwheel train to Les Rochers-de-Naye; this is by far the busiest train I experienced in Switzerland and I could only get a window seat if I faced downhill — which is absolutely not ideal when you’re heading up a steep slope, so aim for an uphill-facing window seat if you can. The only advantage of facing the “wrong” way is that you can more easily see the Lake Geneva views — but your back may suffer. This is a 45-minute ride, after all; you’ve been warned.

In the summer months, the first half of your ride up the mountain may be HOT and this train is not air conditioned. Take a fan and fresh water. But since you’ll climb more than 1,600 metres during this cogwheel train journey, by the time you reach the top (at 2,042 metres or 6,699 feet), there should be a lovely breeze where temps are at least 10 degrees cooler. The scenery all the way up and back down are incredibly impressive, and you’ll be treated with a number of paraponters (paragliders) in the distance — a decidedly Swiss activity that you’ll frequently find at elevation across the country.

The views up here are simply staggering and there are hiking trails with plenty of time to get your steps in before the next train arrives to head back down. There’s a restaurant that overlooks the mountain range where you can order snacks, meals or just dessert, like I did. It was 10 CHF (~CAD$17) and really yummy.

Remember: pack SPF, some layers and a freshly filled water bottle when heading into elevation.

Montreux day trip

If you’re combining Veytax, Les Rochers-de-Naye and Montreux into a single day trip, take the cogwheel train from Rochers-de-Naye all the way back down to the heart of Montreux to spend the balance of your day there. If, however, you’re coming directly to Montreux for the full day, you can start at Casino Barrière Montreux.

5. The Queen Studio Experience (located inside the casino) is a free attraction. Unfortunately, when I visited, the studio experience itself was out of order. Bummer. But the rest of the space was totally worth visiting even without it! Queen — the band, British rock royalty — owned a recording studio in Montreux for many years, recording six albums here between 1978 and 1995. The studio was ultimately re-built into the casino after the original burnt down while Deep Purple were mid-set.

Fun fact: this fire would eventually trigger the song “Smoke on the Water.” (Neat, huh?!) 

There are original, handwritten song lyrics, Freddie Mercury costumes and other important memorabilia on display, but my favourite part was the little movie theatre where there’s a film retracing some of the band’s history. The whole museum is just so well-done and it definitely needs to be part of your Montreux day trip.

6. Walk along the Quays of Montreux (Quais de Montreux), not just to get to the next attraction but as an essential part of your Montreux experience. This lakeside promenade is so beautiful and, if you’re there at the same time as the Jazz Festival, you’ll find food trucks, vendors and other pop-ups along the way, plus makeshift stages for performers. If you’re not, there’s still 13 kilometres (eight miles) of promenade to explore, filled with palm trees, tropical flowers, sculptures and more.

7. Speaking of the Montreux Jazz Festival, my trip happened to coincide with it, which is how I ended up staying in Veytaux — because I couldn’t afford anything in Montreux (hotel prices surge during the festival, as you can imagine, with three-star hotels asking upwards of $900 or more per night whereas Hôtel Masson was about $350 per night, including breakfast).

Although I wasn’t interested in the artists playing the night I planned to be there, I didn’t want to miss this world-renowned music festival. And neither will you. Don’t like jazz? No problemmo — every genre is represented. The entire town, but especially the promenade area, is bustling so much that it’s damn near vibrating. There are buskers and live performers right on the Quais de Montreux and loads of free and ticketed events. 

8. Continue along the Quais de Montreux until you reach the Freddie Mercury statue. Snap a pic, pay homage to one of the greatest singers who ever lived and be on your way. 

9. Plan ahead so you can get a reservation during golden hour at La Terrasse du Petit Palais. It’s a Fairmont Le Montreux Palace-owned patio restaurant, though it’s not in the hotel itself. Instead, use the map above to find it overlooking Lake Geneva, protected from potential summer showers in a luxe tent-like structure.

Open seasonally, La Terrasse du Petit Palais serves the kind of food I expect from a Fairmont property. Everything was outstanding — with flawless service — from apps to mains through dessert. Oh, and the pink champagne.

From fresh asparagus spears nestled among gorgeous prosciutto and delightfully bright tuna crudo to a lobster linguine to end all linguines, you’re guaranteed a meal to remember here.

10. Have a splurge-y after-dinner cocktail at nearby Funky Claud’s Bar, where you can listen to some live music during the Jazz Festival in a more intimate environment, with seating, and feel absolutely fabulous doing it.

11. One of the things you MUST do while you’re in Switzerland is a panoramic train ride, and the GoldenPass Express is a stellar option. Not to be confused with the Golden Pass Belle Epoque train, the GoldenPass Express is an ultra-modern high-speed train that offers direct access from Montreux to Interlaken.

Important note: this is your ticket out of the Swiss Riviera into central Switzerland, so save this for the end of your stay in the Swiss Riviera. Since it sets off from Montreux, though, I’m slotting it in here.

Now, since much of this trip was my splurge-worthy 50th birthday gift to myself, I opted for the luxury experience on the GoldenPass Express: Prestige Class. It’s an upgrade even from first-class seats, with significantly bigger windows and larger seats that swivel a full 180 degrees; and this is important, because it means it doesn’t matter which way your seat is facing when your train car is attached — because you can turn it to face the direction of travel, which you can’t do in the other cars.

Oh, and the best part? There are only nine seats in the entire Prestige car. I couldn’t afford to upgrade to the top-tier class on another panoramic train I took (the Glacier Express), but on the GoldenPass Express, it was just a difference of 40 CHF to make a seat reservation in first class vs. Prestige Class, so I went for it. It was super bougie and I loved every second.

Panoramic trains are included in the Swiss Travel Pass price but you must book a seat with a paid reservation on top of the pass itself; that said, the value of the pass is incredible if you plan to travel on a pano-train since the tickets alone can be quite expensive.

I had read and heard really mixed reviews on the premium meal services aboard the panoramic trains, so knowing a big breakfast was part of my hotel package at Hôtel Masson, I didn’t book the GoldenPass Express meal. If you make the same choice, know that you can sit in your deep leather seat (with armrest customization to recline and even change the temperature, BTW) and look longingly out the window for the nearly three-and-a-half-hour ride, ordering as much Prosecco-by-the-glass (or the whole bottle) as you like. Because…why not, right?

If you love train travel, panoramic train travel is certainly going to be a thrill and the GoldenPass Express is a wonderful experience from start to finish. You’ll travel from Swiss French to Swiss German areas, passing vineyards, cows, sheep, horses and babbling brooks. You’ll traverse across bridges and through tunnels, speeding alongside alpine meadows filled with wildflowers, towering mountains and quaint flower-laden valley villages. You’ll intersect with a long river in many sections, and you might even get to see birds skidding into Class 1 rapids. And, a summer bonus, the GoldenPass Express is beautifully air conditioned! 

Although you’re heading to Interlaken, this train ride really is the destination.

Pro tips: The GoldenPass Express offers a total of four one-way trips per day. On the way from Montreux to Interlaken, the best views are initially on the left side going in the direction of travel but the right is nothing to sneeze at later on, and you’ll certainly get your turn soon enough. It is completely cashless onboard and prices for beverages and snacks are shockingly reasonable compared to general cafés and restaurants across Switzerland. Book your seat up to six months in advance for the best selection, especially during peak months. 

Vevey day trip

12. When you arrive in Vevey, make your way to the Lake Geneva promenade immediately (use the Quai Perdonnet marker on my map above to find it); photos cannot properly capture the turquoise hue of the water! There are spectacular views up and down the entire path.

Look for The Fork and the statue of Charlie Chaplin, two musts on your promenade stroll.

13. If you’re there during a heat wave, the best way to beat the heat is with a swim in Lake Geneva (which, by the way, is only called that by those who live in Geneva; everyone else calls it Lac Léman). Those who know me well may be surprised to hear I willingly swam in a lake — BUT, (a) it was 40-degree-Celsius weather when I was in Vevey, satisfying my most imperative lake-swimming criteria; and, more important, (b) the lake is super clear, turquoise like the Caribbean Sea, and you can see everything all the way to your toes.

There’s nothing quite like swimming in Switzerland while looking across the lake at France. This will be a “pinch me” moment, so don’t forget your swimsuit.

There are public change rooms on the promenade and decks filled with umbrellas and sun chairs, with docks from which you can jump straight into the lake. I’ve never seen anything like it!

If you’re with kids, however, you’ll be much better off finding a spot under a tree near a washroom for your swimming HQ. Look for the big fountain (Fontaine du jardin du rivage) on the map for both. There’s very little theft in Switzerland, so you should be fine to leave most of your things while you swim, but if you can take a waterproof pouch (like this one) for your phone, ID and hotel key, it wouldn’t hurt.

Vevey is known for its bronze sculptures of nymphs riding seahorses (by artist Edouard-Marcel Sandoz), and these are also near this fountain, marked L’Hyppocampe on the map. Plus, you’ll find concrete steps into the lake here as well, making it the perfect spot for families who want to take a dip.

Leysin day trip

14. Take the cogwheel train to Leysin Village from the Aigle station to get killer views of Aigle Castle and a 1,300-metre postcard view of the Vaud and Valais Alps high above the Rhône Valley. You’ll pass vineyards along much of the ascent — planted right into the mountainside, which were unlike any vineyards I’d ever seen before visiting Switzerland.

Hint: try your best to get a seat that will face forward after the cogwheel switches directions soon after leaving Aigle station; the ascent is slow and very steep and you want to face to direction of travel.

15. Once you’re in the village, you can wander the narrow, winding roads. There are no stoplights in Leysin, and like many Swiss villages, it’s hilly but relatively small and will only take an hour or two to explore. If you’re looking for a great coffee with more stellar views, head to Horizonte Café; they make a mean iced mocha!

And for some of the best cheese fondue in Switzerland, have lunch or dinner at Restaurant La Fromagerie; they also serve one of the best amaretto sours I’ve ever had. While you’re there, look for the enormous cowbell.

16. Do NOT go to Leysin and miss the Télécabines la berneuse, which is a panoramic gondola that will take you up the Berneuse Mountain. You can buy a one-way or return ticket, depending on whether or not you want to ride up but hike down. Actually, it’s more like a downhill walk than a hike, with relatively wide and well-groomed (and well-marked) trails back to the village.

At 2,045 metres elevation (6,709 feet), the Berneuse is hardly the highest summit in Switzerland, but it is considered the best in the Bernese Alps, overlooking the Swiss Riviera. From the summit, you’ll be able to see Mont Blanc, the Eiger and even the Matterhorn on a clear day.

Once you’re at the top, there’s a revolving restaurant (Kuklos) if you’re so inclined, but, more important — be sure to walk behind the building for my favourite view:

Col du Pillon day trip

17. So named for its 3,000-metre peak experience, Glacier 3000 in Col du Pillon is a worthwhile day trip, especially if you have a Swiss Travel Pass because a ticket to this signature attraction is 50 per cent cheaper. Be sure to do the peak-to-peak suspension bridge and ride the chairlift down to walk on the glacier — both of which are included with your ticket.

In mid-July, it was a very comfortable 15°C at 9,000 feet, so I didn’t even pull out more than my merino sweatshirt once we reached the top, but — as always — you should pack layers for all of your Swiss day trips, because conditions can change on a dime.

18. For an extra sum, ride the thrilling mountain coaster at Glacier 3000 (it’s the highest in Europe!); I thought this was great value for such a fantastic experience.

19. Back down in Les Diablerets, which you need to pass through on public transit to get to Col du Pillon, wander the old streets and peruse the shops. This is a ski resort town and has prices to match, but it’s the prettiest little village and, again, quintessentially Swiss but, most notably, a village at the foot of a glacier!

20. If you’re hungry after your Glacier 3000 adventure, grab an early dinner at L’Ormonan. The prices are very good (including the cheapest wine-by-the-glass I came across in Switzerland at just 4.50 CHF) considering the generous portions. 

Lausanne day trip

You may be hard-pressed to do all of this in a single day trip to Lausanne unless you really push it. Personally, I broke this up into two different days, spending almost a full day just going to Évian-les-Bains. So, I’ll start by clustering all of the Lausanne-proper attractions, keeping the Évian-les-Bains for the end as an add-on if you have the extra time.

21. It’s easiest to start at the top of Lausanne and work your way down on foot, so I suggest kicking off your Lausanne day trip at the Lausanne Cathedral. It’s a big, old Gothic church that’s also called the Notre-Dame Cathedral (no, not that Notre-Dame Cathedral), which was built between 1397 and 1427. We were so excited to go inside, but there was an event there all day so, sadly, it was closed to the public. However, the view from up here, around its perimeter, is fantastic; so, even if it happens to be closed the day you’re there, too, it’ll be worth climbing all the stairs it requires.

The stairs themselves (Escaliers du marché) — featuring 177 steep steps — date back to the 13th century, though they had a reinforcing facelift in the early 1700s, so it’s like you’re walking through time as you climb.

22. Next, head down to Palais de Rumine. We had no idea we’d find a series of museums inside — which Miss Q (age 14.5 at the time) said might be her favourite museum ever, thanks to its variety: zoology, geology, palaeontology and other spaces housed here with some fun interactive elements throughout. Entry is free with the Swiss Travel Pass.

23. Then, walk down to the Place de la Palud and fill up your water bottle in the city’s oldest fountain (its basin dates back to 1557!).

With all of the walking you’ve done, you’ll likely be hungry and you’ll probably reach Place de la Palud just as lunchtime rolls around if you arrived in Lausanne after breakfast.  We grabbed some very yummy and well-priced sandwiches from Le Panetier, which is a chain with several locations in Switzerland serving fresh and super-high-quality food all made in-house. 

24. If you like to shop, you’re in luck, because Lausanne has some fabulous shops. Whether you’re after luxury watches, designer or “high-street” clothing, chocolate or Swiss souvenirs, you’ll find it all in Lausanne. Globus — not far from Le Panetier — was my favourite; it’s a higher-end department store with nine locations across the country. I only shopped with my eyes, though, not my wallet!

25. After lunch and shopping, it’s time to hit the Olympic Museum, which has some good interactive exhibits and lots of history about the games plus several Olympic athlete outfits on display and a collection of all of the Olympic torches, which is very cool to see in real life. That said, I’m glad the price of admission was waived thanks to our Swiss Travel Passes since it only takes a couple of hours to do the entire museum. 

Tip: if you didn’t enter the museum from the lake side, be sure to head out using the set of doors that’ll take you out to the Olympic Park (Parc Olympique on the map), sitting on the bank of Lake Geneva.

26. Immediately in front of the Olympic Park, walk along Quai d’Ouchy, which is the Lake Geneva promenade in Lausanne, and probably my favourite of all the promenade walks I did in the Swiss Riviera.

Look for the Éole Sculpture, an installation art piece by Clelia Bettua — a massive weathervane in the shape of a “C” that moves and is impossible to miss.

Pass by the exquisite Château d’Ouchy — a lakeside neo-gothic castle-turned-hotel with roots that trace back to 1117. Originally constructed as a medieval fortress, the late-1800s saw it refashioned as a hotel, preserving its medieval tower.

If you need to cool off, there’s a great little gelato pop-up along the water’s edge not far from Château d’Ouchy called Glaces Veneta; this is its Ouchy outpost. And if you’ve got younger kids with you, there’s a carousel and big, ship-like play structure nearby as well.